| By :
Bob Finklea
People love success measured in a multiplication of our investment, literally and metaphorically. It is said that the stability of a new freshwater aquarium is measured by how an aquarist has, for one, a good eye for so-called pH level. This is crucial in fish-keeping as its effect can be on both ends in the world of expectations: fish kill or multiplication. While it is true that this part of the hobby is a frustration among many new aquarists, the principle behind knowing, understanding and maintaining a pH level is actually very simple. It is an open secret that should benefit everyone that is why it is always best to become well-informed hobbyists all the time. Adjusting the pH level is such a very common problem which has easy to follow solutions. Why is the pH level important and can it be dangerous to our fish if it is ignored. The pH level in a freshwater aquarium refers to the acid level in the tanks water which should be maintained at a certain stable level: not too low and not too high, or else your fish will become sick from the toxins in the water and possibly die. Usually fish become accustomed to the level of water acidity from their natural habitat in rivers, lakes and wetlands. Most fish species are comfortable with pH levels of 6.2, 6.6, 7.0 or 7.4. Many believe that the ideal pH level is 7, however this is not the bottom-line in monitoring your aquariums water acidity. A danger to the aquarium is when you cannot maintain a constact pH level within the tank. Drastic fluctuations should be prevented. This means that a fish can survive better with a constant level of 6.2, instead of with changing levels between 6.2 and 7. It is good that there are instruments available like the pH level test kit that measures the pH level. It helps to monitor the levels when one performs the necessary change of water, whether it is done daily, weekly or monthly. In this case, make sure that the fresh water you put in the tank, has the same pH level as with the previous water that you threw out, or at least is close to it. In connection with testing the pH level, one should also test the water for total hardness. Naturally, water has a buffering system, a defence mechanism against rapid pH changes brought about by natural processes such as the respiration of fish and breakdown of excess organic wastes such as fish food. Total hardness or dH is the measurement of this part of the waters natural buffering system. An ideal dH reading is considered to be at the minimum of 6 dH. A reading lower than this means there is not enough buffering capacity and that may affect the stability of the pH level. Of course, to get some stability, it is better to achieve a higher dH between 6-12 dH. Collectively, minerals dissolved in the aquarium contribute to the tank waters total hardness and thus, also function as part of the buffer system. One way to maintain the buffer system is to measure what is called carbonate hardness or KH. the existance of calcium carbonates in the water are determined this way. Ideally, a good reading for higher pH levels, for your tanks KH would be between 100-200 mg/L while for regular aquariums a reading between 75-100 mg/L is enough. Usually, tap water already has a high pH level. To raise pH levels, alkaline additives can be used to raise the buffering capacity of the water. Crushed coral is also considered a buffering substrate. It is important to be alert in monitoring its effect because at times, coral can really make rapid changes in the tanks water acid quality. It is also good to know that lowering the pH level is more complex than raising it, because this involves the removal of buffering ions like salts and minerals present in tap water. Controlling and adjusting the pH level is a rather meticulous task of this hobby. It pays to know and understand the nature of water when it comes to water acidity because this is crucial in the life of your fish. You would not like to see your old fish one day floating lifeless in your aquarium just because they were deprived of a constant pH level, which as you can now see is simple and relatively easy to maintain. Once you get pass this part, maintenance will become much easier and maybe fun, and will be less frustrating. Patience and keen attention to detail is required in fish-keeping. Maintenance procedures such as partial water change and cleaning-up of your tanks filter and substrate, through scrubbing, vacuuming and siphoning are good ways to replenish the fish tanks buffer systems. You should also be aware of the dangerous phosphates in the water and the accumulated debris or dirt that sinks into the gravel beds of the tank and into the buffering materials at the bottom of the aquarium. To maintain constancy in your tanks pH level, get yourself some test kits for the pH level, the dH level and the phosphate level. Remember that you are striving for a stable pH level that is ideal for the fish and may not guarentee that your fish will thrive, but will certainly keep your fish out of trouble with water acid levels becoming too high. Use the test kits with the instruction booklet that is included and the charts in the booklet to reach a safe pH level for your tank and you will need to be able to maintain that level daily. Just like anything new, it will take a little practice and you will make minor mistakes but that is okay as long as you basically get it right within your first few weeks.
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