| By :
Levi Reiss
This wine comes from a major white grape, by the major wine producer of an up and coming wine country. Carmel was founded back in 1882 by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, the owner of the great Bordeaux red, Chateau Lafite, which starts at around $900 in my neck of the woods, although I did see it on the Internet for a lot less. Carmel is the oldest Israeli exporter of wine, brandy, and grape juice and produces nearly half of all Israeli wine. Interestingly enough in the 1920s they had to deal with a triple whammy losing purchasers because of the Russian Revolution, American Prohibition, and Arab nationalism. Many of their vineyards were replaced by citrus groves. But now business is booming and to meet the need for higher quality wine they have launched several boutique wineries. OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price. Wine Reviewed Carmel Sauvignon Blanc Selection (V) 2007 12.0% alcohol about $9 Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Description: According to the label, this wine also represents a good choice for vegans. Aromas suggest grapefruit, melon, peapods, passion fruit and citrus. Dry, fruity, round and fresh. This is a solid sipping Savvy. And now for my review. At the first sips the wine showed bright acidity with some honey. Its first pairing was with baked chicken in soya sauce accompanied by vegetarian pancakes made with broccoli, potatoes, oat bran, garlic et al. When accompanying the pancakes this wine tasted of grapefruit and the honey was gone. Things went quite differently with the chicken. The Sauvignon Blanc was harshly acidic and unbalanced. Its flavors did not express themselves. With fresh strawberries the honey came back and the acidity was no longer harsh. The next meal started with homemade broccoli and potato soup perked up by Japanese wasabi rice crackers. The wine was lightly acidic and tasted of grapefruit. The main course was an asiago cheese omelet with a side of pesto that at first almost overwhelmed the wine. As the meal progressed its grapefruit flavor resurfaced. Perhaps surprisingly, it actually improved when facing the more powerful pesto. Dessert was a delicious apple, plum, and pear cake but the wine was simply absent. My final meal included a boxed vegetarian lasagna that I slathered with grated parmesan cheese. The Sauvignon Blanc was fairly round and had good acidity. It presented a touch of pea pods and citrus. Dessert was Haagen-Daz mint chip ice cream. The wine was overpowered but did manage a touch of mint. What to do when the wine responds poorly to a seemingly workable food pairing? Try another dessert (I am always ready to sacrifice for this column.) With a chocolate chip sponge cake, not nearly as tasty as the homemade cake of the previous meal, this wine was lemony and oily, much better than before. I ended the bottle with two local cheeses. With a mild gouda cheese the wine was sweetish and round with light acidity. With a yellow cheddar its acidity perked up and sweetness diminished. Both wine and cheese pairings were pleasant combinations. Final verdict. I don't plan to buy this wine again. But if you are looking for an inexpensive kosher wine or something plebian to wash down plebian cheeses, this might be an acceptable choice.
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